OPG NEWS: Newsletter


VOLUME 1, ISSUE 2	FEBRUARY, 10TH 2010
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SS

When it comes right down to it, Chevrolet’s storied performance history can be summed up in two simple letters— “SS”. Sure, names like Chevelle, Camaro and Nova conjure up visions of tire-smoking prowess. And of course, cubic-inch call-outs such as “396”, “427” and “454” all bring to mind big torque and power. But the “SS” moniker is the all-encompassing term that will forever symbolize not only power and performance, but a level of pure class as well.

Where did it all start? In 1961, with the introduction of the SS option on the full-size Impala. This was the year the legendary 409 cube V8 came into play as well. The SS/409 combination was Chevy’s response to Ford’s 390 powered Galaxie. You might say 1961 was the year that the serious horsepower wars began!

Over the rest of the ’60s and on into the ’70s, the SS package was offered on many different Chevrolet models. Good thing too, as competition from Ford (with their GT and XL models) and Mopar (with their R/T packages) was always a threat in the showrooms and at the drag strip.

The SS option/model always offered an upscale appearance, and in most cases, a variety of high-performance engines and suspension upgrades. This short “tid-bit” from Colin’s Corner won’t get into all the engines and sets of features that came on every SS-optioned car that Chevrolet ever offered (that would take an entire book!) Instead, we’ll cover the years the SS major players were offered.

1961: The full-size Impala started it all.
1962: Impala.
1963: Impala, Chevy II Nova.
1964: Impala, Chevy II Nova, Chevelle.
1965: Impala, Chevy II Nova, Chevelle.
1966: Impala, Chevy II Nova, Chevelle.
1967: Impala, Chevy II Nova, Chevelle, Camaro.
1968: Impala, Chevy II Nova, Chevelle, El Camino, Camaro.
1969: Impala, Nova (the “Chevy II” name was discontinued for ’69), Chevelle,
El Camino, Camaro.
1970: Nova, Chevelle, El Camino, Camaro, Monte Carlo.
1971: Nova, Chevelle, El Camino, Camaro, Monte Carlo.
1972: Nova, Chevelle, El Camino, Camaro.
1973: Nova, Chevelle, El Camino.

SS model notes:

• Impala SS was discontinued after the 1969 model year. It resurfaced from 1994 through 1996,
then again in 2004 through 2009.

• After 1973, the Laguna S3 coupe replaced the “SS” as the sporty/performance
option on the Chevelle.

• Camaro SS was discontinued after the 1972 model year and wouldn’t reappear until 1996.

• El Camino: Interestingly, even though the El Camino SS was a relative late-comer to the storied
SS fold (1968), it continued the longest, running throughout 1987.

• Although the original Monte Carlo SS only appeared for a couple of brief years (1970-’71), it turned up again from 1983-1988, and then in 2000-2007.

• Nova SS continued throughout 1976.

Sure, Chevy has had other “muscle” monikers over the years: RS, Z28, IROC, LTZ, L88, etc., but the legendary SS casts the tallest shadow of them all!

Don’t forget, when it comes to Chevelle and El Caminos, SS or not, Original Parts Group has every reproduction part you’ll ever need to complete your stock or modified build. There’s plenty of cheaper, inferior quality parts out there, but why would you ever use them on a car with such a storied past?

How to: steering column removal, inspection,
and refinishing

This project will help you get your steering column back to looking factory fresh and operating like new. We will cover removal of the entire column, checking the bearings, re-painting, and re-installation. It can all be done with some basic skills and a few simple tools (Philips screwdriver, flat-blade screwdriver, 12-point wrenches, socket wrenches, and a steering wheel puller). The project took us approximately 3 hours, not including overnight
paint drying time.

Of course, if your steering column is beyond repair, Original Parts Group carries brand new replacement units for all 1964-’72 GM A-Body vehicles. OPGI also stocks the parts you’ll need for a partial re-build or a complete overhaul— including gears, seals, bearings, even lower steering column covers.

Tip: Grab another person to help pull the steering column through the firewall. This can be done by one, but an extra set of hands always helps.

To disconnect the base of the steering column from the gearbox, remove the two steering coupler nuts and bolts.(Picture 1) The steering coupler acts as a rubber isolator between the steering shaft and gearbox that eliminates road vibration through the steering wheel. At this stage, you must also remove the pin that retains the park “lock-out” arm assembly.(Picture 2) The park lock-out arm prevents the transmission from shifting out of park, unless the ignition key is in the “on” position.

At this point, disconnect your car’s battery. Now, inside the car, using a Philips screwdriver, you’ll need to remove the horn pad (the design can vary from vehicle to vehicle). Disconnect the horn wire assembly. The wire terminals are “push-in”, and will easily pull out of the inner horn contact. Then, bracing the steering wheel, remove the 7/8” steering wheel nut.

Now, we want to remove the steering wheel itself. The spline of the upper steering shaft is tapered, securing the wheel. Therefore, a steering wheel puller must be used (available at most auto parts stores). Following the manufacturer’s instructions, pull wheel directly off the spline.

Using a Phillips screwdriver, remove lower steering column cover. Then unplug the turn signal wiring harness. Remove four 3/8” sheet metal screws that retain the firewall seal, leaving the seal attached to the steering column. Remove two 9/16” upper column bolts. Lower the column, and unplug ignition switch wiring harness. Rotate the steering column to clear the park lock-out arm (through the hole in the firewall) and remove the column.(Picture 3-4)

Back with the Philips screwdriver, remove the anti-theft lock cover at the top of the column. With a flat-blade screwdriver, pry and remove the C-clip, then remove the locking steering ring. Remove turn signal/canceller/inner horn contact. Then, remove the turn signal lever and the ignition cylinder lock.

Now remove the three screws that retain the signal switch assembly, then unscrew (by hand) the hazard switch located on the side of the column and set aside.(Picture 5)

It’s time to check the bearings. Turn the steering shaft by hand (both the upper and lower portions of the shaft). It should rotate smoothly and freely in either direction. If there are signs of excessive “play” (more than 1/8” in either direction), grinding, or rubbing, chances are the bearings need replacing. Unless you are skilled in this area, we suggest consulting a specialist regarding bearing replacement.

If everything seems OK with the bearings, we can now prepare the entire column for painting. Smooth out any gouges or scratches left by dangling keys with a fine grit (500 or higher) sandpaper. Wipe the unit down with a non-petroleum based cleaner, and dry with a lint-free cloth. In a well-ventilated area, spray the column with primer. Let dry approximately one hour. Then paint. We used two coats of black acrylic lacquer and let dry overnight. As a separate unit, re-paint the upper steering column bracket at the same time.

Make sure the cylinder lock is re-installed, then replace: 1. turn signal lever, 2. turn signal/canceller/ inner horn contact, 3. locking steering ring and C-clip, 4. anti-theft lock cover, 5. hazard hand switch, 6. ignition switch, 5. the upper steering column bracket, and 6., the tilt-column lever (if applicable).

Our “restified” column is now ready to be reinstalled. The column is slipped back in through the firewall the same way it was removed. Be sure to re-connect the ignition and signal switch wiring harnesses. Make sure the upper column bolts are re-attached as well as the four firewall seal screws.

Re-attach the steering wheel, and tighten the 7/8” steering wheel nut using the socket wrench. Re-attach horn wire contacts and horn pad.

Although we have covered how to check for bearing wear, we have not gotten into upper and lower bearing replacement. This is a fairly complex procedure that could involve disassembly of the entire column. If you determine that your bearings require attention, we suggest consulting a professional.

With your column looking fresh and ready for the show circuit, we’ll bet you’ll never use a set of dangling keys again!

1. Using 12-point wrenches, we disconnect two steering coupler nuts and bolts.	2. Remove the pin that retains the park “lock-out” arm assembly.	3. Our steering column removed. We have also removed the ant-theft lock cover, the locking steering ring, the hazard hand switch, the ignition cylinder, and the upper steering column bracket.
4. The end of the shaft. Note the sharp edges on the spline. Rounded edges indicate a need for replacement.	5. With the cancel cam/horn contacts removed, we rotate the shaft by hand, checking for excessive play.

Rochester Quadrajet 101

I’d be shooting blindly by guessing how many of you out there have stuck with your original (or rebuilt) Rochester Quadrajet carburetor. Let’s face it, it was GM’s mainstay carb throughout most of the musclecar era. Heck, not just on musclecars either. Any GM car or truck that needed a V8 with some extra oomph for hauling or towing came with one of these babies too. Of course, there are many aftermarket carburetors on the market today, and just as many folks have elected to toss their old Q-Jets in favor of one of them. Just check out one of our OPGI catalogs—in any one of them there’s close to a dozen pages packed with “state-of-the-art” carbs and related parts and accessories from the likes of Edelbrock, Holley, and Barry Grant.

There’s no denying though, that Rochester’s 4-bbl unit was the forefather of them all, and that’s what came on your GM A-Body from the factory. Here we’ll pay a little homage to the legendary Quadrajet, which are available as SMI rebuilt units from OPGI.

Introduced in 1965, the Quadrajet is the only four-barrel carburetor that performed well during the 1960s, through tighter emissions in the 1970s, and lent itself to electronic feedback in the 1980s. The Quadrajet takes advantage of its “spreadbore” design to offer relatively good fuel economy and outstanding performance.

“Spreadbore” means that the carburetor has small primary bores and much larger secondary bores. Most versions have 1-3/8” diameter primaries (very few had 1-7/16” primaries) and all have giant 2-1⁄4” secondaries. During normal driving, the engine operates off the small primaries. Following the laws of physics, the higher the velocity of air through the venturis, the more efficiently you can meter fuel. With the small primaries in this carb you can take a 5000 pound Cadillac and achieve 16-17 mpg, which is not bad at all considering the heft of the vehicle. When the throttle gets mashed however, the huge secondaries open and then, well, say bye-bye to fuel economy. But how much fun this is when you’re rolling in a 3500 pound GM A-Body!

The “air valve” type secondary had two controlling features:

• The secondary throttle plates are directly controlled by the gas pedal. You can bang them open on demand.
• The air valve plate at the top would open in reaction to the open secondary throttle plates at the bottom. The opening rate is crucial.

The “Q-jet” is an excellent overall performer, and is very tunable to do whatever you would like to do with it. It has been said that Rochester Products manufactured about 120,000,000 Quadrajets in about 30 plus years. That’s quite a legacy!

Rochester Carburetor Flow Ratings                   CFM
Quadrajet: Air flow at 90є air-valve opening
1-3/32-in. venturi (primary)                                      750
1-7/32-in. venturi (primary)                                      800

Dualjet
1-3/32-in. venturi                                                    227
1-7/32-in. venturi                                                    287

Varajet (staged 2 barrel)
28mm primary                                                       375
30mm primary                                                       397

Model 2G: 1-1/4-in. flange, 1-7/16-in. throttle bore,
1-3/32-in. venturi                                                    278

Model 2G: 1-1/2-in. flange, 1-11/16-in. throttle bore,
1-3/16-in. venturi                                                    352
1-1/4-in. venturi                                                      381
1-5/16-in. venturi                                                    423
1-3/8-in. venturi                                                      435

Model 4G: Throttle bore & venturi size in inches
1-7/16 – 1-1/8 primary; 1-7/16 – 1-1/4 secondary      486
1-7/16 – 1-1/8 primary; 1-11/16 – 1-15/32 secondary 553
1-9/16 – 1-1/8 primary; 1-11/16 – 1-15/32 secondary 692

Monojet
1-7/16-in. throttle bore, 1-7/32-in. venturi                   160
1-11/16-in. throttle bore, 1-5/16-in. venturi                 210
1-11/16-in. throttle bore, 1-1/2-in. venturi                   250

NOTE: 4 barrels rated at 1.5-in.Hg pressure drop.
2 barrels rated at 3.0-in.Hg pressure drop.
1 barrels rated at 3.0-in.Hg pressure drop.

Colin’s Corner Project 1969 Buick Special Update!

In my first installment of Colin’s Corner, I made mention that my beloved ’69 Buick Special was getting totally gutted and redone. Not a rotisserie resto, but darned close. This car was actually pretty nice (notice I used the word “was”), as you can see by the photos. Lots of folks called me crazy for tearing it all apart again, but let me explain.

Sure, the car was literally about 80% done. Over the past 9 years (on and off), friends and I have done a lot of work on it. The Special is packed with OPGI restoration parts too— everything from interior items to suspension parts to trim and weatherstripping. Lucky for me, Original Parts Group carries just about everything I’ve needed to get this car restored the right way (as side note here: you Buick owners have to check out OPGI’s selection of center grilles for various years and models of Skylark. I have one in the Special, and it rocks!) Anyways, a couple of very minor interior items and an engine rebuild would have finished her. And I would have ended up with a real nice driver. Something I could have cruised every day of the week if I’d wanted to. The paint wasn’t 100% perfect, but hey, it’s supposed to be a driver, right? If I’d picked up a stone chip or two, I wouldn’t lose any sleep over it. Sounds kinda nice, doesn’t it? A cool car you can live with on a daily basis. Well, that was my original intention anyway... Then one bright sunny day last summer, as I was replacing the firewall insulation pad (another OPGI part), I stood back and took a real long hard look at the Special. Something came over me. A feeling that excited me and scared me at the same time. By no means were the car’s body and paint perfect, I already knew that. But suddenly I was seeing things I’d never seen before. Nothing major, just some relatively minor imperfections. I wanted to just shrug it off, but couldn’t. That annoying perfectionist side of me was taking over again! Over the next week or so, I made up my mind to dismantle everything. I struck a deal with Apland’s Auto Body in Grants Pass, Oregon. I would do the teardown, and turn the car over to them for a complete re-working of the body and a show-stopping paint job. What I wanted to show you here was the car after it was stripped, in primer, awaiting final sanding. As of this posting, Apland’s schedule has us about a month or so away from the paint booth. Look for an update in the next installment of Colin’s Corner. Oh, and yes, she’ll be back in her old shade of Crystal Blue!
Yep, the door/trunk lock assemblies and window regulators have been removed too.	The mighty Special with most of the trim removed. The interior has also been completely gutted at this point, including the headliner and carpet.
At Apland’s Auto Body. The car goes through a complete sanding, revealing uneven spots. The Buick Special’s bodylines are particularly complex and need a lot of attention and finessing.	Randy at Apland’s gets down to the nitty gritty after over 60 hours of sanding. The deck lid sits on a stand in the foreground. The car was treated to 2K Urethane Gray Primer by Eastwood.
The engine has also been removed at this point. Original Parts Group has supplied new engine compartment items (master cylinder, washer pump assembly and wiper motor assembly) that we’ll install after paint. Stay tuned as we keep you updated on the project Special!